The 1980s behemoth everyone slags off: no curves, incredible drape, and my favourite Doxa
Gethin has finally bought another watch
Gethin has finally bought another twerp, and it's not a surprise: another Doxa. Out of the lovely flotation device comes the behemoth, the Sub 600T, Caribbean dial. This is going to annoy a lot of people, because a lot of people don't like it. But I do, and that's why I bought it. Months later it's my favourite at the moment. Not a very popular watch, but I absolutely love it.
List is £1,390 on the bracelet, £1,490 with the blue ceramic bezel. I paid £1,050 from Watches of Mayfair, then spent about an hour sizing the bracelet.
No curves whatsoever
The original was a 1980s Doxa, and you can see it: angular, no curves on this watch anywhere. The Jenny family bought Doxa in 1997 and did away with it, then brought it back in 2021, I think. 40 mm, very comparable to an SKX, 47.6 lug-to-lug, 20 mm lugs, 600 metres. The height's the issue: 14.1 mm, with a bulbous caseback that protrudes immensely. Insanity.
Inside, a Sellita SW200-1. People will balk at that for over a grand, but it's Swiss, reliable, easy to service at any watchmaker. On my timegrapher: amplitude 307, beat error 0.1, zero to plus two a day. Not too shabby.
Better than its bigger brothers
The bezel action is better than on its bigger brothers. Feels nicer. No-deco scale, sharp-tooth edge, shark-tooth markers and a lovely orange hour hand. Excellent legibility, beautiful handset. And while everyone hates on Doxa lume, the 600T has great lume. Lasts as long as the Marinemaster 300.
Incredible drape, disgraceful clasp
This bracelet is something else. It flexes, it drapes, incredible drape. It's flashy, it catches the light, polished chamfers, and it looks integrated but isn't, so it'll suit any rubber or NATO. Pin and collar, with the collars in the centre link, which I found to my disgust while sizing it. But once it's sized, it's sized for life.
The clasp is a bit of a disgrace. Not even double deployant: press-fitted, with a dive extension you're never going to use and no on-the-fly adjustment for summer. In fairness, it's faithful. An old-school clasp, and slimmer than the chunky ratcheting ones.
Definitely not for everybody
It's quite esoteric. He sits up on the wrist, doesn't taper in any way, he's very proud. 195 grams sized, so you know you're wearing it. But very comfortable. Other reviewers say it's too heavy and too big. I don't know who these people are. If you're used to divers, it's easy to wear. The case may be a deal breaker for some, but the fit and finish on all the Doxas is impeccable. And the 150-quid copy the reviewers keep pushing? It isn't better. It never will be.
Verdict
Loads of people hate this watch. I really love it. Very original, eye-catching, real presence. Just look at him. For the beeeech. Stay freaky, bros, and never give up.
