42 to 44 mm case

Dampened Seiko perfection in a beautiful case, let down by a micro-adjust clasp that marks its own links.

One of the best Seikos ever made. Gethin would pick it over the HBF1.

A good-value family of in-house GMTs: 'they're all great' for under GBP 400, though he is 'not a GMT guy' and hates the friction-fit bezels. Sprite and Silver Cloud are his picks.

A stunning black GMT whose bezel annoys him: he can't see why it is called Black Grape, and one example's bezel alignment is 'disgusting'.

A lovely, wearable blue-sunburst SKX reinterpretation that he calls a 'stunner', though the friction-fit bezel and cyclops irk him and it isn't one of his two picks of the range.

His favourite of all the SSK GMTs: a handsome silvery-sunburst piece he is 'confirming is good'.

One of his two picks of the SSK GMTs: a beautiful, eye-catching best seller that is 'not a Rolex, but pretending to be one'.

A freaky salmon-pink limited edition he wouldn't buy himself but can see the appeal of, with the loosest bezel of the lot.

A rose-gold-accented champagne GMT he likes: 'really good', 'absolutely proper'.

A boutique-exclusive champagne two-tone that unexpectedly won his heart: warm, well-finished and rare, though the bezel isn't the best and the clasp is the usual one.

A smart, handsome dress watch with a lovely dial and great value, though a big 42 mm and not Gethin's kind of watch.

Excellent value GMT in the Marine Master case, but he hates the dial and clasp and says he would not buy it.

A beautiful 'baby Marine Master' with a stunning case, but he calls it an MM200 with a freaky dial, finds the lume poor, and wouldn't buy it.

A very nice, well-made and good-value GMT diver, but Gethin would not buy one: he dislikes GMTs and the Blue Wave dial.

A dial that won him over: splendid cave-diver gradient on the proven SLA case and bracelet, though the clasp is the usual letdown.

High-quality, comfortable, 'wears like an SKX', but he doesn't think it's for him, and the stamped clasp is a sore point at this price.

The black one of the pair, which he slightly prefers: high-quality, comfortable, 'wears like an SKX', but not for him, and the stamped clasp is a sore point.

A niche but beautiful titanium field watch with a bezel feel like nothing else; Gethin loves it but at GBP 2,400 says get rid of it.

A brutal, ingenious, £100-ish Russian diver that Gethin thinks everyone should buy immediately.

The Doxa he never wanted but had to have: superb lyre-lug case, his nicest Doxa bezel and best timekeeper, bought for half price; let down by poor lume, a cheap clasp and (later) the hour hand.

A rugged, razor-edged slab with the best lume he's seen and a lot of watch for the money. The V2 costs more and cuts corners on the bracelet.

The Marinemaster 300 'for three times less': same soul, slightly lesser body, and never pay more than £650.

The quintessential Doxa and his most eye-catching watch: short like a Turtle, extremely comfortable, a bezel he's never felt the like of and an exemplary beads of rice. Only the lume lets it down.

A mint, New Old Stock Halloween pumpkin with the best bezel of any SKX he has handled. The SKX007 is still his favourite.

A lovely, high-quality in-house diver for about a hundred quid, let down by a tiny crown, a hard-to-grip bezel and a jangly bracelet; Gethin would spend a bit more on the Kamasu.

One of his absolute favourites: engineered like a £1,000+ watch for around £500, let down only by weak lume and a butterfly clasp.