Titanium like RoboCop, light as a feather, chapter ring totally squift: the Shogun
Four hundred and fifty British shekels
Me and my buddy Mr Jun have been looking for this twerp for a long time, and we finally got one at a fantastic price. The Seiko Shogun, SPB189, or SBDC129 for my American friends. List price in the States when it came out in 2020: 1,500 US dollars, about 1,200 from other vendors. In old Albion, 1,410 British shekels new from Seiko. Quite ridiculous. Mr Jun snagged this one on eBay, pretty much mint, for 450 pounds. You'd struggle to get an SKX for that.
This is the Gen 2 Shogun, and the first thing that strikes you is that it's entirely made from titanium, just like RoboCop was. Case, bracelet, bezel. All of it.
The case. Incredible, incredible case.
As always with Seiko, the case is by far the best part. Dull titanium, a behemoth and a sight to be seen. It's a nightmare to polish up, you always end up with little smudges, but that's part of the pleasure. Incredible sharp lines, strong looks. It takes after a shogun's battle armour and helmet. Far more attractive than the Samurai. The flanks and the tops of those strong downturned lugs are brushed exceptionally well, with a beautiful transition into high polish. It almost looks like zaratsu. It's not, but it's close enough for me. 44 mm, 51 lug-to-lug, and only 13.3 mm thick. Very thin for a big diver.
Bezel, dial, and that bloody Cyclops
Deeply notched bezel, two-tone insert, bronze-grey anthracite with the first 15 in black. I would have preferred all black, but it's not unattractive. It's loose, with a strange but not unsatisfying feel. I like it.
Matte black dial. Keep it simple and plain, that's the way I like it. Inverted trianguloid indices full of loom, and a rose gold seconds hand that's a sight to behold as it sweeps round. Then the Cyclops. Get rid of it. Absolutely ridiculous. The loom, though? Great. It's a Seiko after all.
Light as a feather
117 grams on the bracelet with two links out. A 44 mm dive watch should weigh over 200. It's a joke how light it is. I wore it all day, went to the football with it on, and it's one of the most comfortable, if not the most comfortable watch I've ever worn. Not just for a big diver. Any watch.
Problems too great to overlook
Have you spotted it? The chapter ring. Not just a little bit out, completely to the right, top and bottom. Squift. Every 6R and Prospex I've handled has it. On a watch that could cost you 1,400 quid? Unacceptable. Then the clasp: stamped shell, no ratcheting, a useless dive extension, a stamped swing arm. At this price, you should have milled out everything. Worst of all, this 6R35 runs plus 30 to plus 35 seconds a day. Is it a watch or a loudspeaker? A kettle? A toaster? It's off to be serviced and regulated in September. Most reviews say these run fine. This one doesn't.
Verdict
I absolutely fell in love with this watch as soon as I got it in hand. One of my favourite Seiko designs, pure Seiko, pure Japanese. Massively underrated. Would I buy one? Absolutely. But not for what they're charging. Get rid of yourselves. 450 to 650 for a good used one is a great deal. Never give up, bros.
